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Anti-Roll Bars for the GT40

Adjustable blade type sway bars are a lot of fun to construct. Problem as always on a GT40 was space. I purchased the blades, bars and fixed arms from Genesis Technologies Race Car Parts and Equipment. Pillow blocks for the bars were sourced elsewhere and are alloy with self centering bushes fitted in them, very nice units.

REAR

When the transaxle mount was designed clearance was left between the mount and the transaxle for a roll bar. Modifications to the shock uprights were also made to accommodate the sway bar bearing mounts.

The roll bar was cut and welded to the adjustable bush on the right (below). On the left a standard fixed arm was modified to angle outward.

The sway bars are hollow and 25mm in diameter. At the end of the "blade" arm (above) are bearings in the supporting tube that allow the blade to rotate and adjust the sway bar stiffness. These are pretty common units in race applications. I used a spline on the end where the bar connects to the rigid arm so the removal of the assembly is easy. The rigid arm was milled and bolted to bend it rather than heating it up etc. The end result is very strong and exact.

Drop links were turned up on the lathe and groves added on the mill.

FRONT

The front bar was routed through the chassis to keep the space ahead of the foot area clear. The self centering bearings ensured the bar does not bind due to it being impossible to get both sides of the alloy chassis parallel. Missing the brake cooling duct in all suspension & steering lock combinations was tricky.

The completed bar setup fits really well and will provide ample adjustment potential.

Billet Transaxle Parts for the GT40

The 2006 Ford GT transaxle used in the car required custom engineered supports. Two supports, one at the rear and one at the top, are required to stabilise the transaxle in the car.

For the rear mount I first mocked up the part in cardboard, then transferred it to CAD.

I then had the part CNC machined out of 6061 T6 Aluminium.

The worry when such a part turns up is that you get a dimension wrong and a hole does not line up or the part is at the wrong angle. Luckily it was perfect first time.

Another part to design and manufacture was a large support at the top of the transaxle. The mount fastens to the rear cross member and supports the transaxle in a similar way to the 2006 Ford GT. Again I modeled the part and then had it CNC machined from aluminium.

Various cutter sizes are required to machine a part like this.

Some time later...

Finished! The mount was curved near the attachment point to leave room for a sway bar between the transaxle and the mount. A threaded boss was also designed into the mount to attach a lifting bolt to the transaxle for easy removal from the car.

Above are both mounts on the car before water blasting and anodising.

Another small part to make was a billet rear cabin window. It was something I really wanted to have in the cabin although it wasted quite a bit of material!

When fitted it supported the glass well. All threaded holes are on the backside so that they are not visible in the cabin.

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Keeping Cool in a GT40

Putting AC in a car like this is considered by some a luxury. However it becomes a necessity if driving the car on the road is to be an enjoyable experience. With a great deal of AC experience this part of the build was going to be a little special.

Installing a capable AC system in a car with limited space is always going to be a challenge. In order to make the best use of the space available in the cabin a custom system was manufactured.

The starting point was a good SPAL brand blower motor. Next was to procure a good aftermarket evaporator case and cut it to bits! A fiberglass transition duct between the blower and evaporator case was made so that the unit could tuck under the dash and not impact the passenger foot-well area. The blower to was positioned in a triangular portion of the passenger side within the under dash structure.

You can see the process of positioning the blower to fit in the vehicle below. Temporary "sticks" aligned the blower and evaporator. A fiberglass duct was then constructed to create an air duct.

The fiberglass sheets used for this were made by sandwiching resin and matting between two panes of glass.

Once painted the result is well worth the effort.

The system included the drainage system for condensate and positioned the TX valve in a position that allowed the plumbing to route in a way that made installation and removal of the system possible.

A plenum chamber for the evaporator to blow into and distribute the air to the side vents and center dash outlet was next. This was also made out of fiberglass.

This duct was designed to ensure the dash duct aligns with the air delivery system as the dash is installed. This allows the dash to be removed without having to disconnect hoses etc.

The under dash duct was then insulated to keep the air cool and stop the formation of condensate.

Next task was to fit the AC compressor. As can be seen the OE compressor was never going to fit.

So a custom solution was required. A great compressor that is both small in size and capable of delivering excellent performance was found. An old one was used for a positional mock up.

A custom drive belt system was required due to the non-standard AC compressor and alternator position.

This made new layout made fitting the compressor possible. This also allows the use of one belt to run all the accessories.

Keeping the pulley gauge line perfectly aligned is critical to ensuring reliable operation of the entire system.

The refrigerant plumbing was then completed in aluminium hard tube. The only hose used is at the compressor and evaporator interface. Minimising the length of hose in an AC system contributes to reduced refrigerant permeation (leakage) as well as reduced weight. Lastly to control the system a refrigerant pressure transducer was installed to provide the Haltec ECU with the information necessary to protect the system from high and low pressures. A basic trinary switch could be used however this is a far more elegant solution.

Huge Radiator and Evans Coolant for the GT40

Nobody wants to build a car that is borderline when it comes to its cooling system. If you are also going to add a large A/C condenser its even more critical to get things right as this places additional loads on the cooling system. The cooling system was designed to be as efficient as it could be and the decision to use Evans coolant was made very early in the build as well. Space for the coolant reservoir in the rear was limited and using Evans meant that this could be made as small as possible.

I decided to design a larger radiator than the stock RCR unit due to the hot Australian climate. There is nothing wrong at all with the RCR unit, I just really wanted to fill the available under bonnet area to the maximum.

I will also be using a large AC condenser so I wanted to account for its impact on the radiator. I utilised two high power 12"fan units (each delivers 1565 CFM at 0" static). These large 318mm diameter fans cover as much of the core face as possible but do draw a lot of power. These will be controlled by the Haltec ECU and will come on at different coolant temperatures.

The resulting radiator and fan package is quite a size jump over the standard unit as can be seen below.

The radiator had condenser mounts welded straight to it on the top cover plate of the core.

The larger radiator fills all the available space in the vehicle and just clears the front of the body. Foam will be used to seal the care to ensure all the air from the front intake goes through the core.

The installation turned out to be very neat. Careful attention when mounting the core is needed to minimise stress on the core which could lead to a fracture.

The total coolant volume of this installation is 19 liters (5.0 gallons) which is great. The larger the volume of coolant the better, except for weight!

Front Brake Cooling Ducts for the GT40

Nothing looks worse than dedicated brake cooling ducts that go nowhere! The GT40 has body openings for the front and rear brakes so there is some fabricating to do.

After seeing some great brake setups on high performance cars I felt we should actively cool the brakes as well.

The first job to be done was the front brake ducts. An alloy duct to get the air into the centre of the rotor was the first part fabricated.

Some cooling ducts blow air on only a sector of the rotor or one side of the rotor. This type of cooling can setup differential temperatures on the rotor leading to performance or durability issues.

The disc above feeds air into the rotor hat and forces it out through the radial fins in the rotor.

The round hose pipe was welded to the round disc plate.

A tight tolerance between the round cooling plate and the disc rotor ensures the air is fed well into the rotor and will exit out of the cooling vanes. The next job was to get the air through the front of the chassis plate. I made another alloy structure and bolted it into the chassis.

The seal is a temporary one, it will be cut properly and glued later. As the front body clip closes the duct in the body will seal to this feature.

Next job was the fiberglass duct in the front body. It needs to be a complex shape to clear the spot lights. I also did not want to look in the front of the duct from outside the car and see a fiberglass texture so I made a smooth foam pattern that fits inside the body to manufacture the duct.

I covered the foam in tape and mold release. Then covered it in fibre glass, split it, finished the inside and rejoined them. Now when you look in the front of the vehicle you will see a perfect smooth duct up into the body.

Looking in the duct a smooth black painted surface will be seen.

Cooling hoses take the air from the chassis plates and into the rotor duct.